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Moisture Linked to Insect Infestations

Waterproofing and foundation repair go hand in hand with pest control. Removing the water and sealing cracked foundations is the first line of defense for preventing pests in basements and crawlspaces.

Advanced Energy’s 2005 crawlspace research study was the beginning of closed crawlspaces.  Their research helped people understand the importance of closing a vented crawlspace. In its studies in Flagstaff, Arizona, and North Carolina, the research team discovered an interesting finding. In addition to increasing energy efficiency and decreasing moisture they also found closing the crawlspace had a dramatic impact on decreasing insect infestations. Team leader Cyrus Dastur, said they saw a 70-percent decrease in insects in the houses with closed crawlspaces compared to houses with vented crawlspaces.

The EPA has a basic plan for controlling pests. Overall, pests seek places to live that satisfy basic needs for air, moisture, food, and shelter. They suggest the basic ways to control pests:

  • Remove water. All living things, including pests, need water for survival. Fix leaky plumbing, and do not let water accumulate anywhere in or around your home. Remove or dry out water-damaged and wet materials. Even dampness or high humidity can attract pests.
  • Remove or block off indoor pest hiding places. Caulk cracks and crevices to control pest access. Avoid storing newspapers, paper bags, and boxes for long periods of time. Also, check for pests in packages or boxes before carrying them into your home.
  • Block pest entryways. Install screens on all floor drains, windows, and doors to discourage crawling and flying pests from entering your home. Make sure any passageways through the floor are blocked. Place weatherstripping on doors and windows. Caulk and seal openings in walls. Keep doors shut when not in use.
  • Remove food. Consider pest-proof food and waste containers. You may use this as a criterion when evaluating cabinetry or designing space.

The Basement Health Association is always working to align professionals whose works effects the basement environment. Encourage pest control professionals to join the association. Consider networking with these professionals to work together to better the health of the basement and crawlspace environment.

 

How to Determine Condensation from Water Penetration on a Wall

There is a very simple test to determine whether or not the wetness on a wall is from external water penetration through the wall or from condensation depositing moisture on the wall.  If you encounter a situation where you need to determine what caused a wall to be wet you can follow the below steps:

  1. Pick a test area on the wall and take measures to adequately dry the wall.  This can be done with heaters or any other safe method that restores the area to a dry state.
  2. Once dry, take a piece of aluminum foil and tape it onto the wall in the area that you have dried.  Be sure to tape all of the sides so that you reasonably seal the air behind the foil.
  3. Leave the foil in place for at least a day and then remove it. If the moisture is on the side of the foil facing away from the wall, it is condensation. If it is on the side of the foil facing the wall, it is penetration through the wall.

How to Reduce Condensation or Dampness in the Basement

  1. Allow moisture to move out of the home when cooking or washing or drying clothes.
  2. Make sure the bathroom is ventilated to allow hot steam to exit the home after baths and showers.
  3. Insulate the basement by air sealing and installing additional insulation as needed in areas of concern.
  4. Check the basement for water penetration issues.

Fixing Dirt Crawlspaces: Liners or Poured Concrete

Over 25 million homes in the U.S. are built over exposed dirt crawlspaces. The U.S. Department of Energy and independent building science research groups have found exposed dirt crawlspaces cause moisture problems, pests, and high energy bills.

Basically, what is under the house should be treated as part of the house. The environment under the house effects the indoor environment. Leaving the crawlspace exposed causes moisture problems such as high humidity, rotting wood floor joists, mold, mildew and pests.

If we know leaving a dirt crawlspace as is isn’t an option, you need to do something about it. Basically there are two approaches to fixing the problem: installing a plastic liner and encapsulating the crawlspace or pumping a concrete floor into the crawlspace.

While concrete may fix the aesthetic problems of exposed dirt crawlspaces, it does not fix the moisture problems. Concrete is porous meaning moisture can travel through it.

Researchers found installing a plastic liner system in the crawlspace and closing the vents is a better option to solving humidity problems. Advanced Energy’s ground-breaking research in 2005 changed the building codes regarding vented crawlspaces in North Carolina. The study proved that closed crawlspaces using a plastic liner system solves the humidity problem in crawlspaces and leads to better energy efficiency.

The Department of Energy has since adopted the new found knowledge saying a properly sealed and insulated crawlspace will save energy costs and improve comfort levels and durability of a home. It will reduce moisture, radon, and other pollutants and pests that often enter the home through an exposed dirt crawlspace.

Understanding FEMA Assistance for Homeowners

The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) is the government relief program for the U.S.  Most people know FEMA as a household name but until your area is hit with a disaster where the damage is so widespread that it is declared a federal disaster (the declaration must come from the governor, a federal agency director or the President); you may not even be aware of the relief programs available.

Once a flood is declared a federal disaster area the government will open FEMA “teleregistration” with a toll-free number for you to call for assistance.  FEMA may also open one or more Disaster Recovery Centers (DRCs).

DRCs will give information and take applications for assistance and are usually located in a nearby school or other public building. They will be open during the day and early evening for several days to give people time to come in. Your local new outlets should report locations and hours. In many cases, floods will destroy uninsured property causing losses and needs.  This creates a gap in coverage even if you have flood insurance. FEMA helps people with or without insurance.  If you don’t have insurance go to the DRC first.  If you do have insurance you should file a Proof of Loss form before visiting a DRC. There are six different types of assistance.

Temporary living assistance

The disaster assistance program may provide a safe place to live while you repair damaged homes. For those without insurance can apply for rent assistance or FEMA may provide mobile homes or other temporary living arrangements. If repairs can be done quickly to make your house liveable, the program may provide funds to make those repairs.

Low Interest Disaster Loans

If home-owners or business owners, farmers and others sustain major real estate and personal property damages, they may be eligible for low interest loans through the Small Business Administration (SBA) and the Farmers Home Administration (FmHA). SBA and FmHA can provide loans even if there is no Presidential disaster declaration.

Like any traditional loan, interest rates and eligibility vary depending on income and financial condition of the applicant.

FEMA Grants

If you don’t get a SBA loan or if you do not have any other financial resource, you can apply for a grant to help with expenses and serious needs. Individual and family grants can cover immediate expenses such as medical treatment, transportation, home repair, replacement of essential personal items, and the cost of protecting your property from the flood.

Income Tax Deductions

If a federal disaster declaration was made, you might quality to file an amended tax return for the past year and get a partial refund for your uninsured casualty losses. Even if no federal declaration is made, you can often deduct your uninsured losses on your next income tax return.

“Floodproofing” Assistance

While restoring a building to its pre-flood condition is important, FEMA is now encouraging repairs and updates to include “floodproofing” to modify the structure to withstand damage from a future flood.   At BHA, our contractor members see thousands of properties a year damaged from major and minor flooding.  There are some homes where the basement floods every year because of the lack of the proper drainage system in the basement and/or the lack of gutters and outside drainage systems around the perimeter of the house.

If you lived through a flood and don’t want to deal with the flood clean-up again, the SBA’s Disaster Assistance Loan program can loan additional money to cover certain floodproofing costs.

Counseling

Another service FEMA provides after a disaster is crisis counseling.  It is important to cope with problems before they get out of hand.  The Red Cross, as a first responder, supplies information to help cope with the mental stress of living through a disaster.

How to Measure Your Sump Pump Strength

Not all sump pumps are created equal.  Some are actually stronger than others.  Pump strength is measured by the amount of water that is can push out of a 1 ½ inch PVC discharge line.

Most pumps have a flow chart indicating the Gallons Per Minute (GPM) with the feet of discharge line.  The length or height of discharge line is called head.  10 feet is the average height of discharge line. Most basements have eight foot ceilings and sump pumps are set into the foundation floor about two feet deep. For example the equation “X gpm at 10’ head” means that X gallons can be pumped out of a discharge line 10 feet tall in 1 minute.   The more gallons pumped per minute, the more powerful the pump.

Some manufacturers try to trick homeowners and contractors alike rating their pumps at 0 head. For example: “2000 gpm at 0 head.”  This sounds impressive but doesn’t mean much in a true life application.  There is hardly a real life situation where you would just plug in the pump and not attach a discharge line.

You also have to watch for sump pumps that have high GPM ratings.  If they are pushing out that much water quickly they may be more likely to quit sooner.

Sump pump strength is also measured by the motor’s horse power. Horse power ratings are just like a car engine. Typically, the more horse power the greater the pumping capacity.   Most pumps come in three sizes: 1/3 hp, ½ hp and 1 hp. There are pumps that are less and more, but for residential or commercial applications there are few situations that you would run into a need for a 2, 3, or 1000 HP motor in a sump pump.

No matter what sump pump you select, the BHA recommends installing a back-up pump system to work if the initial pump dies.  It will also extend the lifespan of your whole waterproofing system if you spread the load over multiple pumps.

Professional basement waterproofing companies all over the world sell multiple versions of battery back-up sump pumps and those are typically the better option available on the market.

Tips to Draining a Seriously Flooded Basement

If your basement is flooded with more than just a couple of inches (we are talking a foot of water, here), don’t be in too big a hurry to pump it out.

Here’s why.

Water in the ground outside your home is pushing hard against the outside of your basement walls. But the water inside your basement is pushing right back.

If you drain your basement too quickly, the pressure outside the walls will be greater than the pres­sure inside the walls—and that may make the walls and floor crack and collapse, causing serious foundation damage.

To avoid this situation, follow these steps when you pump the water out of your basement:

After floodwaters are no longer on top of the ground, you can start pumping the water out of the basement. Do not use gasoline-powered pumps or gen­erators indoors because gasoline engines create deadly carbon monoxide exhaust fumes. Safety tip: Make sure the electricity to the house is turned off.

Pump the water level down 2 to 3 feet. Mark the level and wait overnight.

Check the water level the next day. If the water went back up, it’s still too early to try to drain the basement. Wait overnight again. Then pump the water down 2 to 3 feet again. Check the level the next day.

 When the water stops going back up, pump down another 2 to 3 feet and wait overnight. Re­peat steps 4 and 5 until all water is pumped out of the basement.

6 Tips for Healthy Below-Grade Spaces

The trick to healthy below-grade spaces is keeping the area dry and free from mold—or anything that may be a food source for mold.

Jeffrey C. May, owner, of May Indoor Air Investigations, LLC., in Tyngboro, MA, agrees with the EPA and the Basement Health Association of how to keep a safe, dry and healthy basement.  He outlined tips for keeping healthy below-grade spaces that coincide with the practices of basement health pros.

Dehumidify your basement

May says high humidity is the leading cause of mold growth in the basement.  Mold and mildew flourish when the relative humidity level is above 80%; therefore all basements—finished or unfinished—should be kept at or below 50% relative humidity. In order to maintain that humidity level, May suggests using a dehumidifier and measure the humidity level often.  He says the humidity level should be measured independent of the dehumidifier.  He suggests using a thermo-hygrometer such as Humidity Alert from Therma-Stor.com/.

A basement exhaust is not a dehumidifier

Sucking the air out of the basement will not maintain the proper humidity levels in the basement. When you pull air out of a basement, it pulls make-up air in either through the exterior or from the upper levels of the house. On a hot and humid day, the air from the house and the outside air will have a high moisture content thus introducing more moisture into the basement through the make-up air.

Keep a finished basement warm in the heating season

Simply put, when air cools, its relative humidity levels increases. The best way to maintain a 50% relative humidity level in your basement is to keep it warm in the heating season.  Most people are prone to turning down the heat in the basement if they are not using it. However, when the air is warming and cooling the air will actually create more moisture that may lead to mold and mildew growth.  May suggests keeping the basement consistently warm at least at 58 to 60 degrees F in the heating season.

Get rid of basement carpeting

There are inherent problems with carpet in the basement.  Carpet captures biodegradable dust and can be a breeding ground for mold.  While a basement should be treated like part of the house, it is not the same as the upper levels of the house.  There are different issues that happen in the basement environment and the same building principles don’t apply the same below-grade.  May recommends tile or vinyl flooring instead of carpet to eliminate the potential problems.

No fiberglass insulation in the crawlspace

Fiberglass insulation doesn’t work very well below-grade.  It is

In an unfinished basement, store belongings properly

A common scene in an unfinished basement is a bunch of cardboard boxes full of seasonal decorations and keepsakes sitting directly on the concrete floor.  Anything biodegradable on the porous concrete floor may lead to mold problems. If there is ever water or moisture problems in the basement these boxes should be off the floor on a metal or plastic shelf.  The shelving should also be at least 18 inches away from the foundation wall and 6 inches off the floor.  If you have to keep cardboard boxes on the floor, May suggests putting down a foil-laminated sheet of polyisocyanurate foam insulation on the floor and up against the wall to protect the boxes from the concrete slab and foundation wall.

Choosing the Right Contractor for Your Home

Finding the Right Contractor | Basement Health ProsIt can be quite the project diagnosing home repairs, doing the proper research, seeking out local companies, and comparing estimates.

Here at Basement Health Pros, we aim to make that a bit easier for you. Here is a quick checklist of things to look for when seeking out a contractor for your next big improvement project.

  1. Find a Locally Reviewed Contractor.
    The first step in guaranteeing you’re getting yourself a quality contractor is if you can find them online in all your favorite local review sites. Great customer reviews are even better.
  2. Don’t Pay for Free Estimates.
    Contractors have to earn the right to do business with you, not the other way around. If someone asks you to pay a small fee for a first-time inspection (even if they say they’ll refund it), tell them to take a hike. There are dozens of contractors out there waiting in line for your business.
  3. Get Everything in Writing.
    If you’ve chosen a true professional, they’re not afraid to stand by their estimates. Save yourself any potential future trouble and get your estimates written down in plain English. If you have a question or don’t understand something, speak up!
  4. Licensed/Insured/Bonded or Bust.
    Don’t trust your home to anyone who doesn’t have proper license and insurance policy. Licensed, insured and bonded contractors eliminate any financial or legal responsibility on your part should something unforeseen happen.
  5. Memberships, Certifications, and Professional Affiliations.
    Although it may not be your ultimate deciding factor, it sure is nice to see a company recognized by the larger community and have professional affiliations. This is a sure indication that you’re going to be dealing with a true professional.

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